We’re all a little bit spoiled now that every new restaurant that opens is required by law to install ovens carved out of the rock face of Vesuvius, and it’s easy to forget that Pizza D.O.C. was first to get the dough rolling. But the place just kept quietly on, perfuming the 2200 block of Lawrence with the gentle whiff of wood smoke even after D’Ortenzi died and sisters Diana and Carol Himmel bought in five years ago. They kept serving the same pastas, salads, antipasti, and saltimbocca alla Romana too, but gradually began sneaking in specials that reflected their (and the neighborhood’s) German heritage. A few months ago they made a major move by putting their name above the door and putting those German dishes on the menu permanently.